What’s a wat?  A wat is a temple.  As is Wat Arun – the Dawn Temple – that ironically is best viewed at sunset.

Everything about Thailand is exotic.  The food, the smells, the culture, the architecture and the street life.  When in Europe, you still feel you’re in a Western culture (well…you are of course), but you don’t see an elephant walking down a city street in heavy traffic.

The food alone is worth the almost 18 hour, non-stop flight from Los Angeles.  But make no mistake, it is a bear of a flight.  I believe all the airlines now make a stop before continuing to Bangkok.  Consider it a welcomed break to stretch and move muscles that are on the verge of cramping.

We landed in Bangkok in the morning, found our driver (pre-arranged) holding a sign with our name, and drove to the northern outskirts where family awaiting.  After some unpacking, catching up and relaxing we went to Baan Rabiang Nam (River Tree House) right on the edge of the Chao Phraya river for lunch.  From its wood deck, we watched the currents of the river slowly go by while we ate, laughed, and marveled that we were halfway around the world.

It sure seemed the heat and humidity made everything more flavorful.  So much so that my very first dish had my tongue crying for water most of the day.  Turbo-charged spice notwithstanding, it was a great, inexpensive lunch.

Not sure when we would be coming back to Thailand, I wanted to get some suits made while in Bangkok and found Raja’s Fashions.  Although I needed to come back 3 more times to get the fittings right (which cut into sightseeing time), three suits and four shirts later I was ready for the business world when I returned home.  Bobby, my Sikh tailor, offered drinks when I arrived and took care of me as if I was royalty.  He, and his father, were skillful and gracious, and having hand made suits should be on the list of every businessman.  I believed they have moved their shop, but definitely go see him.

Raja’s Fashion is (was) located on the edge of the Na Na district which has “colorful” nightlife.  Bars are everywhere, and “ladyboys” (Kathoey) blend in with everyone else.  Bangkok is a city of dichotomies where conservative religions mix with remarkably liberal acceptance, modern juxtaposes ancient, and order around chaos.  Case in point: the traffic which is legendary. Three street lanes will have four lanes of cars and no one honks!

If you are there, you may wonder how do Thais drink and ride a motorscooter at the same time.  Simple really:  They have soda in bags they hang on their handbars.   Problem solved.  The traffic itself is something to see and fascinating to behold.  All manner of vehicles zip around including Tuk-Tuks, which are open air three-wheeled scooters, that allow a cheap, fun way to see the city.  The open air sides mean you get to take in all the sights at street level as well as all the sounds and smells.  Try them at least once, but remember you will be among the exhaust of all those vehicles.   There is no EPA here.

Our real, first full day was filled with temples.  We first visited Wat Phra Kaew (วัดพระแก้ว)  and the Grand Palace.  Known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is a stunning fairytale site of glittering statues and temples, with the former Thai monarch residence here as well.

The day we visited it was very hot and humid…and I mean really hot.  To make things more interesting, legs should be covered and closed toed shoes worn.  Near the entrance, there’s a booth that provides visitors coverings in the form of very colorful pants.  Luckily we dressed accordingly but could easily spot the ones that didn’t with their “clown pants” as we called it.

 

 

The Emerald Buddha is here located in a Boht and although you can go inside, the no camera policy is strictly enforced.  So enterprising tourists stand outside taking pictures from a safe distance.

After the main part of Wat Phra Kaew, we worked our way over to the Grand Palace in the most logical way possible: which was to scurry from structure to structure avoiding the massive heat.  The Grand Palace is indeed grand.

Make sure you enter the temples to see the insides, being mindful to take your shoes off of course.  The colors, especially the reds, are vivid and beautiful.

Next on our agenda was Wat Pho (วัดโพธิ์), the oldest temple in Bangkok and has Thailand’s largest (longest) Reclining Buddha.

The grounds are less grand than Wat Phra Kaew, but just as interesting.  We went straight to the Reclining Buddha, which is housed in a wihan (an assembly hall), and is ridiculously long at over 100 feet.  Even reclined, it is 50 feet high.  Starting at the feet, we worked our way towards the head (I believe you are encouraged to start at the head).

  

Before going to Wat Arun we needed lunch.  We walked around a street next to the river crossing area that would take us over to Wat Arun, and found a restaurant in the sweltering heat.  Like at Wat Phra Kaew, it was easy to pick out the tourist: they had sweat marks on their clothes while the locals looked very comfortable.

We then hopped on a ferry for Wat Arun.  Crossing the Chao Phraya River is an adventure in itself with longtail boats speeding by and ferries carrying tourist and locals alike.  From the water, Wat Arun stands tall with its Central Prang measuring 266 feet tall.  The steps look manageable enough from a distance, but close up reveals how steep they are.  The first set are the easiest and the highest are the steepest discouraging a few who were acrophobic.

    

Evenings ranged from relaxing time, to excellent jazz at the Hyatt downtown, to more jazz at the bar in the Mandarin Oriental. In our opinion, the Mandarin Oriental is one of the great hotels of the world.  The lobby is filled with treasures, lilly filled fountains and beautiful hanging lights.

From the lobby we went outside to a dock on the Chao Phraya and took their private ferry to the other side where more of this luxury hotel awaits.  Upon hearing the female jazz singer in the lounge, we drifted inside to soak it in and enjoy cocktails.  It was an exotic, blissful time.

Something that should not be missed is going to the Chatuchak market (pronounced almost like Jatujak and affectionately called “JJ”) is the largest market in Thailand.  To get an idea of its size, first imagine the largest swap meet you can think of, and then put 5 of those together.  It is huge.  Mostly outdoors with everything you can image will be sold from clothes, to electronics, to local crafts and artwork, to every imaginable food.  Be prepared because you will do a lot of walking and it will be hot.  We got a clear bag of fried pork with a spicy coating (again, more edible items in a bag), and slowly, carefully walked around exploring the stalls.  Thai fisherman pants are a one-size-fits-all that you put on, fold over the excess material, and wrap a string around your waist attached from the back.  I bought five pairs.  They are so comfortable and I still reach for them today when I want to relax after a long mountain bike ride.

Are first week ended with teaching a class at one of the international schools.  All the kids were so well behaved and eager to learn and it was personally very rewarding for us, and an honor to be their guest teachers for the day.

After that, it was on to Koh Lanta for some beach time in the South Andaman Sea.