For us, Paris is the most elegant of all cities and romantic beyond belief. Go with an open mind and let Paris embrace your heart and forever change it. Our first trip there was in April 2010 taking an early evening flight from LAX and arriving in CDG airport just before 7pm. We took a cab with anticipation and watched the city we’ve wanted to see for so long get closer and closer. The Eiffel Tower loomed in the distance as our homing beacon since we were staying at the Hotel Baltimore in the nearby 16th Arrondismont. We checked into the hotel, dropped our bags and immediately headed to the Eiffel Tower – an easy walk. Passing the Trocadero, but only after a quick stop to take a picture of the Eiffel Tower from this well located vantage point, and then down the steps and across the Seine and we made it!  The sun had just set as we headed up to the highest point that we could go on the massive steel beam and rivet structure. With the days getting long in this part of the Europe, the evening twilight slowly and lazily closed. City lights were starting to twinkle below us, a light breeze on our faces and the magic of being in Paris was felt in full. We lingered as long as we could until realizing our stomachs were in need of nourishment.

So we walked back up to the Trocadero and onto the big traffic circle that was lined with cafes. We chose Cafe Malakoff and walked in. Excited to use some of my limited French, I asked for a table of two, and our efficient waiter seated us and handing us two menus…in English. What? Was it our clothes? My accent? Not deterred, we ordered and enjoyed a relaxing late dinner before heading to bed. The food was ok.  A couple of items to note: Service is very businesslike and no nonsense, and there is no hurry for you to leave. You are in Paris so sit and enjoy. When you are ready to leave, get the waiter’s attention and ask for the bill (“L’addition s’il vous plait.”). As for tipping, most places have a standard tip included but you can “round up” if the service is very good. A $9 bill may warrant leaving $10.  Typically 5-10% and preferable to tip in cash.

Hotel Baltimore is on Rue Kleber, in a quiet area that is more residential than tourist center, and with a Metro stop close by, nearly all of Paris was within a few minutes of our hotel. We really liked our hotel, which was well priced for Paris when we went and the staff was very helpful and courteous. On one occasion, we came back from dinner and asked about taking the train to Orleans and he warned there was a chance of a rail strike the next morning and probably better to wait a day. Little things like that go a long way! Our room had two large double windows that opened up to the typical wrought iron outside railings.

The bed was very comfortable. The closet space was very limited and if you have a large amount of clothes to hang, I would recommend getting a larger room with a bigger closet. Since we tend to pack light, it wasn’t an issue for us. The next day started with le petit dejeuner: un cafe and croissants. After, we walked the city. Over to St-Germain, and then to Ile de la Cite (the island on the Seine and the geographic center where Paris was born in 300 BC). Both Notre Dame and Sainte Chapelle are both here. Whereas Notre Dame exudes grandeur with its size, its gargoyles and flying buttresses, Sainte Chappelle offers a delicate beauty and reverence highlighted by its stained glass. Although damaged during the French Revolution, it was restored in the mid-19th century and the stained glass, especially the Window of the Relics, are beautiful. Both sites are must sees.

Back to St. Germain we went and strolled the Boulevard St. Germain, until lunch required us to make our first big decision of our trip: do we eat at Cafe de Flore or Les Deux Magots? We chose the “Two Chinese Magicians”. I’ve seen them also described as Maji or mandarins, but regardless they watch over the diners inside. And being in Paris, that means savoring that most Parisian of activities – lazily eating at a cafe sidewalk table watching the city life go by. The cafe was extremely busy with waiters moving with precision around the tables taking orders, delivering food, and presenting checks. Chris had the Sandwich Jambon (ham) and I had the Croque-Monsieur. Both were excellent. I asked a waiter to take our picture and he said no as he moved on to another table, and it was the only time during our two trips there (we went back the following January) that we experienced indifference by a Parisian. A small minority of people who visit Paris may say Parisians are rude, but that isn’t the case at all as we met some amazing people who were helpful, courteous, and often wanting to talk – especially if you attempt their language. You don’t have to speak fluent French, but Parisians definitely appreciate an attempt at speaking their language (as most cultures do). Pick up a guidebook, load an app on your phone or even go on Youtube for some basic “tourist” French. It will enhance your trip and expand your knowledge.

When traveling, we avoid eating at the mega-company foodstops like McDonald’s, Starbucks, etc. We travel to experience other cultures, and embracing the local lifestyle is a “no regrets” mantra that will change you for the better. A couple of items to note: Crowds can queue up for long waits during the high season at the big sightseeing venues, but shoulder and off seasons can offer little to no lines for those looking to maximize their sightseeing. A Paris Pass (a card allowing you access into museums and monuments) will be helpful (since you don’t have to wait in line to get tickets) and will save money (if you plan on visiting most attractions with the except for the Eiffel Tower).  I also hear that Paris is expensive, but I haven’t found that to be the case at all, and with the exchange rate at $1.11 (as of June 7, 2015) it’s even more affordable.

The Paris architecture is sublime.  Every moment reveals new treasures, and as the light changes throughout the day, buildings show a new face.   One building that captured my architectural heart was the Conciergerie.  Originally a palace, it was turned into a prison during the French Revolution holding more than 4,000 prisoners including Marie Antoinette.

Dinner was at Le Grand Colbert.  It was dark when we took a cab from the hotel and not know the route the cab was taking, we were surprised when he went right through the Louvre.  Amazing moment before an incredible meal.  Upon arriving in the restaurant we were seating at a nice table.  The brasserie has amazing atmosphere with lively conversations and an attentive, well-trained staff.

We dined for a couple of hours, leisurely starting with salads, and then moving on to the main course. I had the steak poivre while Chris had a seafood dish of scallops, shrimp, halibut, and other seafood delights.  Both dishes were perfect and paired well with good wines. Dessert was a warm chocolate cake and espresso to sip.  A wonderful evening it was!

The next day was focused on Musee du Louvre.  The building itself is a work of art and it is huge.  Built in 1190, it became a palace for Charles V and eventually turned into a museum by Napoleon.  You could spend a day just exploring the structure itself, but most visitors including me and my wife were here for the art.  A week might be enough to visit every foot of this massive museum.  Arriving as soon as it opened, we chose to focused on the Denon wing and the Richelieu wing for the day, and the amount of art work on display was staggering.

  

After our morning museum overload, we lunched at one of the many cafes inside the museum before diving back into the art of the middle ages.

If you do plan to visit several sights consider buying the Paris Pass.  You buy 2, 4,or 6 day durations and it can save money, but more importantly it will save time since you don’t have to get in line at each sight to buy a ticket.  Go directly to the entrance line (if there is one).  Note:  Eiffel Tower is not part of this pass.

We also visited Musee d’Orsay.  In contrast to the labyrinth of the Louvre, d’Orsay’s single structure (at one time a train station) makes it easy to focus on the art.  And the art is impressive with a world class collection of Impressionist artwork.

The rest of the afternoon was filled with more walking around working our way towards the Jardin des Tulleries.  Stretching all the way from the Louvre to the Place de la Concorde, it was delightful in Spring when we went.  You could feel the city’s excitement as it emerged from Winter.  When we were there it was the first hot period (with temperatures approaching 80).  People were out strolling, sailing boats on the ponds, sitting and reading.  There are carousels and a ferris wheel, the latter offering views of the city from above.  We enjoyed walking around, eating ice cream but our journey also revealed a surprise.  At the end of the Tulleries are two structures (museums) and one of them was the Musee de l’Orangerie which houses the giant canvases of Monet’s waterlillies.  Upon entering, we saw other works of art, but Monet’s waterlillies was the highlight.  Arranged in a circular room that allows you to move easily from one canvas to another or you can just stand in the middle and see how Monet captured the light from morning through dusk.  Masterfully painted and emotional to behold.

The next day started with breakfast at a cafe near our hotel.  We typically ordered one of the breakfast specials (6-8 Euros)  and read.  For me, that meant reading L’Equipe, the venerable French sports newspaper, to catch up on the cycling action going on in Europe.  This became our morning ritual for the remainder of the trip.

With our long breakfast finished, we walked over the the Arc de Triomphe situated at the end of Champs-Elysees.  It stands in the middle of a large traffic circle, and you get to it by taking a stairway down and under the traffic circle popping out at the base of the Arc.   With the French flag fluttering under the archway, it was striking image.  Climbing up to the top, we were greeting with a view down the entire length of the Champs-Elysees.  It was early enough that the street scene was docile, but it does get very busy on the street and on the sideways.

 

Back to looking at buildings, we walked the length of the Champs-Elysees stopping briefly for iced tea (expensive) at one of the outside cafes, and over to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais.  These beautifully styled building, that serve as exhibit halls, sit on opposite sides of the street that leads to Pont Alexandre III and drip with the belle époque style

It’s a pleasure to cross the Pont Alexandre III.  With pillars topped with golden statues and ornate lamp posts, the pont affirms the feeling of royalty that is everywhere in Paris.

Hotel des Invalides is where wounded soldiers were cared for during the late 17th century, with the greatest of all French soldiers, Napoleon Bonaparte, buried here.  Large lawns spread out in front of it, with people sitting or playing soccer happily in contrast to the somber mood the lies inside.  The tomb of Napoleon is unbelievably massive, sitting on a large base, the tomb stands alone below the dome.

We finished paying our respects to Napoleon and went out into the warm air.

Macarons, Macarons, Macarons!  Everyone needs to have a parisian style macaron while in Paris and we had them every day.  Sometimes several per day. Citron, pamplemousse, chocolat, and more.  At Laduree, Pierre Hermes, Dalloyau, Angelina’s (home to the world’s most decadent hot chocolate!) we went.  Stores so stunning it was hard to believe food was there, but food there was in the form of these delicate wafer delights.  Some stores looked more like art galleries while others had the feeling of a fine jewelry shop.

Next day was a day trip to Orleans via the train.  My parents were stationed there in the early 1960s and I was born there but have not been there since, and it was always on my mind to go to Orleans and see the house where I was born.  I was finally getting the chance.  Some nervous energy was brewing in me as we boarded the train, and all I could think of was my parents and the place they called home for 3 years.  The train rolled south through yellow fields of flowers until we slowed down and arrived in Orleans – the capital of the Loire Valley and the city of Joan of Arc.  It is a charming town and we regret not spending more time there.

Armed with an address, a picture my parents shot of the house, and Google Earth screen shot of the street, we had no idea what was going to happen.  We got in a cab, and gave the driver our address.  Driving to the street, the driver stopped and said we had arrived.  I was puzzled because the house we stopped in front of wasn’t the house.  I said to the driver this wasn’t the house, and he repeated that this is the address.  Something wasn’t adding up and I was getting discouraged.  I walked into the street and looking up and down, and there it was!  I told the driver to take us to the house I saw, and he did.  With him waiting for us, I walked up to the door and knocked.  A woman opened the door, and I asked her if she was the owner, and she said no and went to get her.  Another woman, Isabelle, came to the door and I told her that my parents lived here in the 60s and this is was where I was born.  She looked at me with a smile but puzzled, and I showed her the pictures my parents took and the birth announcement, and she let us in.  It was an overwhelming moment.  She gave us a tour and we stayed for a few hours having fresh orange juice and talking about the history of the house.  As it turns out, some of the houses were given new addresses years ago, and “my house” was one of them.  Isabelle was wonderful, and she took us next door to meet the neighbors, Gilles and Annick, who actually knew my parents!  Talking to people that knew my parents 50 years ago was truly a heartfelt experience.

It was very hard to say goodbye.  We hugged our new friends and Isabelle said she would drive us back to the train station.  On the way back, we talked about coming back to what, for us, is the heart of France.

Back to Paris, we went back to Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis for another in-depth exploration of the stained glass at Notre Dame and Sainte Chappelle, before heading up to Montmartre where the Sacre-Coeur is.

We took the Metro to Montmartre to see the Basilique du Sacre Coeur.  What was once the Bohemian center of Paris in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Montmartre is chaotic in a good way, with small streets winding around the hill with little squares full of character, and the ghosts of artists past including Picasso, Renoir, Van Gogh, Dali and others all around us.  The outside of the Sacre Coeur is cream colored, and there is nothing like it anywhere in Paris, and as we climbed the steps, the view of Paris opened below us in all its magnificence.

We descended back into Montmartre and walked the streets, going into shops and deciding where to eat.  We found a great little cafe and ate there before returning to the hotel to get some sleep.  Tomorrow was a day for the King – Versailles.

The train ride from Paris to Versailles is a short one, and upon leaving the station it is a quick stroll over to the palace.  Set on a slight rise that feels flat, we understood how any visitor of Louis XIV would be overwhelmed by its size and grandeur.  It is opulent beyond belief.   And touring the inside, going from grand room after grand room, seeing the Hall of Mirrors and immense collection of art, it is an overload of the senses.  If something can be covered in gold, it was.  Every surface is covered with crystal, or jewels, or more gold.  Arrive early as it will get extremely crowded to the point of not being fun.  We got lucky taking an early train.

Walking in the main entrance we passed the chapel on the right with a beautiful ceiling painting.

The paintings range from big to bigger, but none captivated me and moved me like the Coronation of Napoleon.  I don’t know what was specifically so emotional about this painting that is almost 33 feet wide.  The picture captures Napoleon holding the crown in his hand with a submissive Josephine kneeling to receive it.  Even Pope Pius VII accepts his roll as attendee rather than presiding over the event.   The reverence is captured, as is the power of Napoleon and the magnitude of the moment.  Incredible!

Moving outside, the back opens up to formal gardens, hedge mazes and the open grounds beyond expansive.  So big are the grounds, they were used for hunting.

Descending the outside stairs to the hedge maze, we walked without any purpose and found our own jewel in the form of a cafe in the maze.  We had no idea it was there, but being people who won’t pass up a chance for food we sat down and waited for our waiter to take our order.  I had onion soup and roasted chicken with fries and salad, while my wife order a pizza.  Everything was delicious, especially the soup which to date is still the best onion soup I have ever had.  When comparing this meal to other “museum” food there is nothing better.

Climbing back up the stairs and into the apartment section, we continued our exploration of Versailles.

We took the train back to Paris, strolled around some more and had more macaroons, and then straight to our hotel for a quick pre-dinner nap after the long day.  Dinner was back at on of the cafes, Malakov, and then heading back down to the Seine, we took a late night river cruise to see the city lit up from the vantage point of the river.  It was incredible, especially seeing the Eiffel Tower twinkle with its many flashing lights as we started the cruise.  The moon was getting high enough to reveal itself as we exited the barge, and looking over at the Eiffel Tower with the Spring moon behind closed our trip with a perfect moment in the most perfect of cities.

We did return the following January for another wonderful trip that I will try to post at some point.  And although we have travelled to other cities since, Paris will always be in our hearts.

Au revoir for now.